Plant Evergreens for Winter Interest

We are in deep winter now. The zoysia grass has faded to tan; a sea of dead leaves covers the floor of the woodlands, while brown and gray trunks and branches create a tangled mosaic against gray skies. It would be altogether drab and somewhat depressing, except for the evergreens. 

My marvelous evergreens! Flowers draw admiration and attention to the garden through much of the year (and some evergreen shrubs are most noted for their flowers). Brightly colored leaves dominate fall. But as winter takes hold, the evergreens take center stage as they contribute structure and interest.

Imagine this scene in the woodland garden without the evergreens:

Or this view through the Jasmine arch looking across the front garden. The Confederate Jasmine (Trachelospermum jasminoides) has proved evergreen in my USDA hardiness zone 7b/8a, though it did get zapped the year we had temps in the single digits:

Here is a look at many of the evergreens in my garden. I have provided links when there are previous posts that provide more in-depth information. Most of these are in fact green, but notice the variety of leaf shapes, textures and shades of green. One can create a lot of interest by combining these.

Above, clockwise beginning top left: Gardenia - I have three different varieties. This one is Gardenia jasmoinedes; Dwarf Japanese cedar (Cryptomeria japonica 'Tansu'), a delightful slow-growing dwarf in the woodland garden; Dystilium 'Vintage Jade'; Deodar Cedar - another plant of which I have several varieties. This one is Cedrus deodara 'Feelin' Blue.' Cold weather brings out its amazing blue color.

Below is another form of Cryptomeria japonica: Cryptomeria japonica var. sinensis 'Radicans.' I get a lot of compliments on this tree. Wasn't it beautiful last month when it was frosted with snow?

Below, clockwise from top left, are Pittosporum tobira 'Variegata'; Florida Anise - I have two varieties. This one is Illicium parviflorum 'Florida Sunshine'; Loropetalum - I have three types of these. This one is the very dwarf Loropetalum chinensis 'Purple Pixie'; Camellia japonica 'Gunsmoke.' I have about a half dozen varieties of camellia. I wrote a post on 'Leslie Ann' that will also give you general information about all camellias.

Above is a shot of Variegated Japanese Pittosporum growing in front of Camellia 'Gunsmoke.'

Below is Burford Holly, Ilex cornuta 'Burfordii'. It produces abundant berries without a partner; it had lots more berries before I raided it for Christmas. This one is the dwarf and is about 15 feet tall!

Above, clockwise from top left: Yaupon holly, Ilex vomitoria - I have the tree form, the dwarf, which is a boxwood look-alike, and the weeping variety. They are all extremely durable and great for wildlife; Juniperus pfitzeriana 'Mon San'; Arizona cypress; Chamaecyparis obtusa 'Filicoides Aurea.'

Above, clockwise from top left: Rhododendron; Azalea - I have numerous evergreen azaleas (and quite a few native deciduous ones), and a few rhododendrons. The link will tell you the difference between Rhododendrons and azaleas and how to plant and care for them; Aucuba japonica 'Variagata'; Pieris japonica 'Cavatine'. Pieris also goes by the name Japanese andromeda and lily-of-the-valley shrub. I have two other types of Pieris in addition to 'Cavatine,' which is my favorite.

Above, clockwise from top left: Osmanthus heterophyllus 'Goshiki' (called Variegated False Holly); Tea Olive - also a type of osmanthus, but it looks completely different and, unlike the variegated one, it is fragrant. The link will tell you about both; Mahonia 'Soft caress'; Magnolia grandiflora, or Southern Magnolia, the great iconic tree of the South.

Above, clockwise from top left: Cast Iron Plant, Aspidistra elatior, lives up to its tough name; Canadian Hemlock will grow this far south but not much farther; Boxwood, Buxus sempervirens - it grows more slowly than it's unrelated look-alike Dwarf Yaupon Holly; Rosemary.

Above, clockwise from top left: Yew - I have both a spreading and an upright variety; Indian Holly Fern, Arachniodes simplicior 'Variegata'; Holly Fern, Cyrtomium falcatum. This perennial fern is evergreen in my area; Autumn fern, Dryopteris erythrosora, is another perennial fern that is evergreen here. For secrets to growing great ferns, see my post, Successfully Growing Ferns in My Garden.

Above, clockwise from top left: Blue Rug juniper, Juniperus horizontalis 'Wiltonii'; Moss - I can't imagine my woodland garden without my moss paths; Dwarf Mondo Grass - fantastic ground cover for slopes; Nandina Firepower, a sterile, non invasive form of Nandina domestica.

These are not all the evergreens in my garden (which I admit is larger than the average garden!), but I hope I have inspired you to look at these types of plants with greater appreciation. Do you grow evergreens? If not, perhaps you will find a place for some of them in your own space.

Happy gardening!  Deb

How to Plant and Care For Azaleas

One spring we visited Calloway Gardens in Pine Mountain, Georgia, just as the azaleas were at their peak.I have never forgotten the swaths of candy colored shrubs that blanketed the woodlands. Since then I have dreamed of a similar effect in my own garden, although on a much smaller scale! 

I am speaking of azaleas in this post, but the planting and care of rhododendrons is very similar. Azaleas and rhododendrons are all in the genus Rhododendron, with thousands of named selections. All azaleas are rhododendrons, but not all rhododendrons are azaleas! It is fairly easy to tell the difference. Generally, rhododendrons have much larger, leathery leaves. Many rhododendrons will not grow well in the sub-tropical southeastern US, while azaleas, which love warm air and humidity, can flourish here as well as in the Middle and Upper South. Depending on the variety, azaleas will grow in USDA hardiness zones 5-8.

Azaleas blooming April, 2014 in my front garden

While iconic images of the Deep South often include azaleas, these plants are not necessarily easy to grow. The secret is site selection and planting. The best site receives morning sun and afternoon shade. Too much sun will make azaleas susceptible to lace bugs. Too much shade will cause lanky growth and decreased flower production. Filtered light under tall pine and oak trees is ideal. Some azaleas, such as the Encore series, can take more sun than others. Do not plant near shallow-rooted trees that will compete for moisture and nutrients. Azaleas also need acidic soil with a pH of somewhere between 4.5 and 6. 

Moist, well-drained soil is an absolute requirement for all azaleas. If one sticks an azalea in unimproved clay soil, it will die. Azaleas have shallow, delicate roots, and they must have friable soil in order to reach out for nutrients and water. These fine roots will drown in standing water, and they also will quickly smother in hard, compacted soil. Poorly drained soil will also promote die-back due to soil-borne fungus.

Like many gardeners in my area, I have clay soil. There are two solutions to this problem. Probably the easiest thing to do is to build a berm or raised bed about 8 to 12 inches high. Fill the bed with 50 percent good garden soil and 50 percent organic matter such as pine bark, peat moss, compost or chopped up oak leaves. Plant the azalea high with one to two inches of its root ball above ground. Then pull the improved soil up to the top of the root ball, forming a mound. Mulch with about three inches of shredded leaves, pine bark or pine needles. The mulch will conserve moisture, suppress weeds, and help keep the shallow roots cool during the hot summer. The mulch should not actually touch the azalea but should be applied like a wide doughnut around the stem. Kurume azalea 'Snow' grows in my front garden.

To plant an azalea directly in the ground, dig a hole at least a foot deep and about three times as wide as the root ball. Fill the lower half of the hole with a mixture of 50 percent native soil and 50 percent organic matter. Place the azalea so that one to two inches of its root ball is above ground. Then fill the remainder of the hole with organic matter. Pull the organic matter up to the top of the root ball, forming a mound, and mulch with about three inches of shredded leaves, pine bark or pine needles. As mentioned above, the mulch should be applied so that it does not actually touch the azalea's stem.

Be sure to loosen the roots and water the azalea before planting. If root bound, use a sharp knife to make several vertical cuts around the perimeter of the root ball. Then gently loosen the roots as much as possible.

Once planted, slowly and thoroughly water. Continue to water the azalea two or three times a week until the roots are well-established. This is why I like to plant azaleas in the fall. I rarely have to water them once our winter rains begin. Soil here in the Deep South does not freeze, so the roots have winter and spring to establish themselves before the stressful heat of summer arrives. Azaleas need consistent moisture, about one inch of rain per week during the hot summer. If nature doesn't provide it, the gardener must. But remember: too much water can be just as harmful as too little! Azaleas will absorb water through their leaves, as well as their roots, so overhead watering is beneficial. It is best to water in the morning so the leaves dry by afternoon. Damp leaves in the evening hours can promote growth of fungus.

Azaleas in rich, acid soil require little or no fertilizing. If the pH of the soil is too high, the leaves will demonstrate chlorosis, or yellowing. If needed, cottonseed meal or a fertilizer for acid-loving plants should be applied after flowering has finished in the spring. 

Azaleas are more attractive if allowed to grow into their natural shape, rather than sheared into tight balls, which is the habit of many who plant these as foundation shrubs.The brilliant orange Kurume azalea on the right has been growing in my garden for many years. At about four feet tall, it needs minimal pruning.To avoid cutting off next year's blooms, lightly prune by snipping off spent flower stalks in spring just after blooming has ended. This is also a good time to apply fresh mulch. Azaleas can be rejuvenated by drastic pruning, down as far as one foot of the ground. Do this in late winter or early spring, but remember you will lose the spring blooms. 

Both adult lace bugs and their immature form, called nymphs, damage azaleas by sucking sap from leaves. Leaves develop a grayish cast with a speckled or stippled appearance. If damage is severe, the leaf will appear white and will drop early. The insects feed on the underside of the leaves, so close inspection of the underside will reveal shiny black bits of insect droppings. I thoroughly spray my azaleas with horticultural oil, five tablespoons per gallon of water, in early spring as a preventative against these and other insects that may afflict azaleas. If harmful insect populations are allowed to grow, stronger insecticides may be required.

A butterfly enjoys the nectar from my 'George L.Taber' azalea, a Southern Indica Hybrid.There are many varieties of azaleas, and they all are attractive to hummingbirds, butterflies and other pollinators. Some grow low to the ground, and some will grow up to 25 feet. Choices include exotic evergreen azaleas and native deciduous azaleas.These native azaleas are growing at John's Native Gardens near Scottsboro, Alabama. Their willowy, upright forms look best in a natural setting.By choosing different types of azaleas, including the re-blooming Encore varieties, one can experience their blooms from spring through fall. If well planted and cared-for, these beautiful shrubs will return the investment many times over. The deciduous native azalea 'Florida Flame' has glowing orange blooms that light up my woodland garden in April.